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Replace a Wheel Stud and Install a Hubcentric Wheel Spacers Kit

Replace a Wheel Stud and Install a Hubcentric Wheel Spacers Kit

 All Nissan/Infiniti vehicles

Find related tutorials and information on your vehicle in NICOclub’s Nissan Forums & Infiniti Forums
So after replacing all of my suspension components I found that my wheel offset was not enough to bring my front wheel flush with the body…

So I measured the distance it was off and ordered a Version 1 Ichiba Hubcentric 15mm spacer kit with new longer wheel studs. The version 2 kit has an adapter that you attach to your existing sheel studs. Then the plate has new wheel studs in it. Seems like more points of failure to me

Once you get your car in the air and properly blocked, here are the tools you will need…

Remove your wheel…

Remove the two Brake Caliper bolts and the spring clip for your Brake Line (red dots)…

Remove your Brake Caliper…

Remove the Brake Rotor and align the wheel stud with the recess for removal (red dot). Spin an old lug nut or a nut of the same thread pitch and size on to the wheel stud to be removed. Strike the lug nut pretty hard with a HEAVY hammer. I used a 4lb mini sledge….

The stud is out. If the stud was broken to begin with then you will sometimes have to use a cold chisel or a punch to remove the remains of the wheel stud…

Once all of the wheel studs are out you will simply insert the new stud through the recess and make yourself a stud puller with washers or whatever you have laying around. They have to be strong due to the force it takes to get these bad boys set in place. It takes so much force I like to put just a dab of silicone grease on the splines to help them go into the rusty old hole easier…

Impact away until the stud is FULLY SEATED!!!…

THIS STUD IS NOT A FULLY SEATED STUD AND IT WILL FAIL IF DRIVEN ON!!! This also shows what happens when you do not keep your stud aligned with the recess for stud removal. You screw up your backing plate like a MORON (red dot)…

Repeat the process 4 more times and you are golden. Install the Brake Rotor, Brake Caliper bolts and spring clip. Slide your Hubcentric Spacer on…

Install your wheel lug nuts snug, lower the vehicle then torque the lug nuts to specifications. Never torque the lug nuts for your wheels in the air. Always snug them up then drop the car then torque to spec.
Here is where she sits now. Very flush and very nice…

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How to install an aftermarket steering

How to install an aftermarket steering wheel on a 240sx Vert

Friend’s locally wanted a write up, just did a quick one. I’ll just put up the pics and small descriptions, let me know if you need anything explained.
SPW 350mm Wheel
D2 Quick Release (ball bearing)
LTBmotorsports 25mm spacer
Momo S13 hub (started with HKB but didn’t work)
19mm socket wrench/extension
Alan wrenches and bolts (included with parts)
Before starting, make sure the wheel is locked and in a position you’ll remember (like straight) so that you can match the aftermarket wheel angle. Though you can’t be perfect usually.

Stock setup:

Remove the cover, pull straight out, is only held on by the metal tabs shown. Give the age of these cars if you aren’t carefull to pull straight they will break (doesn’t matter if you don’t want to keep it/reuse).

Wiring going into the Cruise Control Switches:

Disconnect this connector, also shows the yellow wire going to the horn:

Cover off. 19mm bolt holds the OEM wheel on. Takes a good bit of force to loosen. After loose, leave it on about half way and pull off the steering wheel (this is mostly useful for new cars, like S14, that you don’t want to pull too hard and break the Airbag cable).
For removing the steering wheel I just try to flex it by pushing/pulling on the outer edges until it loosens around the spindle. Through a wheel puller could be rented.

OEM Wheel removed. After testing the far bottom left contact is the power/horn point.

Hub slid on the spindle. This was the one that didn’t end up working.

Comparision of the 2 hubs, on on left didn’t work because the metal contact area was too small in diameter. The other Momo is fine.

Hub with nut put back on the spindle:

Wire coming from the hub is the positive. Metal ring provided gives hook up for ground. Both wires go into the back of the QR. Here I added the spacer between the hub and QR, later had to put spacer between QR and Wheel to clear horn button.

Back of the QR, wired:

QR bolted on:

Bolt the top of the QR to the wheel and connect the two pieces of QR.
Run the wires from QR to the horn button:

Enjoy the feel and leg room:

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Repair 240sx digital speedometer with HUD

How to:Repair 240sx digital speedometer with HUD.

by Aaron Longenecker
This repair focuses on trouble-shooting one specific component on the electronic module, a capacitor.That is the one thing that has failed in other units too.
Please note that this repair requires skill at soldering, a fine pointed soldering tip and a steady hand because the part that you will need to replace is a very small surface-mount capacitor in a rather tight place.IT CAN BE DONE!, we did it.
Also, I suggest that you have someone help you with this task.There are times when a second set of hands make certain things much easier and quicker.
You will be removing the electronic speedometer module and testing a specific capacitor by heating it with a soldering iron.If that part is at fault, you will disassemble the module, remove the faulty part, solder in a new one, retest and hopefully, reassemble the whole rig. This may sound extremely difficult, but it really isn’t, there are just a lot of steps.
Difficulty: ***
Time: 1-3 hours
Cost: less than $10
- Screwdriver
- 14mm socket wrench and ratchet with extension
- Soldering iron (fine-tipped)
- Needle nose pliers
- Magnifying lense
- rosin-core solder
- the smallest 50volt, 1uF, radial lead capacitor that you can find.Below are some possible part numbers:
Vendor- Phone – Part #
Electronics Express (800)972-2225 14ER0501U
Allied (800)433-5700 852-6604
Digi-Key (800)344-4539 P5563-ND
* remove the speedometer and gauge cluster
* disassemble the cluster
* test the speedometer module by itself as detailed in the THE TEST: section
* remove and replace the faulty capacitor
* retest module
* reassemble car
There are several plastic moldings that must be removed to get to the gauge cluster. The molding that holds the headlight switches, etc., is the most difficult part.Remove all of the screws that hold it in place.The switches in that molding, to the left of the steering wheel, can remain in the molding.The switches on the right side need to be popped out of the molding.I had to get into a position so that I could see behind the molding and I used a flat bladed driver to push on the lower locking tab of each switch.Push the tab up toward the switch.The bottom of the switch will push out when the tab clears the molding.There is just enough cable to allow you to unplug the switch from the outside of the molding.
Once the switches have been removed from the right side, the steering column must be lowered to make room to remove the molding.There are 2 lower nuts and 2 upper bolts that secure the column.Once the column is loose, lower it only enough to get the molding out, block it to hold it there.Now, the molding around the cluster can be pulled out and swung to the left of the wheel.It can hang there on the wires.
Now remove the 3 screws that hold the cluster in place and pull it out. There are four cables that have to be unplugged.The two larger ones in the center of the cluster have locks on both sides that you squeeze to unlock.The plugs on the left which go directly into the speedometer, only have a lock on the right side.Once the four plugs are out, the cluster can be removed.
Detach the ground wire that is protruding through the back, right behind the speedometer module.Also, you will see a small plug toward the bottom side of the module that you need to unplug.
To access the speedometer module, split the cluster assembly by releasing the locking tabs on the back section.Once the cover section of the cluster is off, you will have access to the electronic module.At this point the other gauges will be exposed so be extremely cautious not to touch any of the needles, etc.
Remove the screws that hold the module is place and carefully slide it out.Once out, it is a good idea to snap the cluster back together to protect the other components.
Heat up your soldering iron.
Hold the module carefully and plug the two cables, from the dash, back into the module.Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.The speedometer should still be dead (if not, then some other miricle has happened).Touch the tip of the soldering iron on the top of the small capacitor shown in Photo 1 (it looks like a tiny aluminum can).In just a couple of seconds, the speedometer should come to life and display a zero.Do not hold the iron on the capacitor for more than a few seconds (ten seconds max), it can make the entire board very hot.

If the display lights up, remove the iron and let the capacitor cool until the display goes dark, then try again to confirm.If this worked, the capacitor is the problem.Disconnect the cables from the module and go to ‘MODULE DISASSEMBLY’!
If the unit does not respond, be sure that you are testing the correct component.Reapply heat to the top of the capacitor.If still no response, apply heat to the other capacitors, one at a time.If still no response, then your problem is beyond the scope of this document.Sorry, go back to forum at NICOclub and look for a replacement in the Classified section.
Work on the module at a well lit bench or table.
To have better access to the faulty capacitor, disassemble the module. First, there is a plug at the end of the top board that must be unplugged. The top board has one screw at the end and two locking standoffs that must be released.Remove the screw. The standoffs can be released one at a time. Carefully squeeze the top of one standoff with needle-nose pliers (don’t scratch the board) and just begin to slide the board up.Move to the other standoff and release it.The top board should be free to pull off, it will pull a little hard because there is a connecting header that you are separating as you pull.
Remove the four screws to free the second board.There is a ribbon cable hard-wired to the bottom board so you will only be able to swing the second board to the side for access to the capacitor.
NOTE: The small board that the faulty capacitor is sitting on is at an inconvenient angle to its motherboard.When I bent it out to a more easily accessible angle, one of the connector pins broke loose from the board and I didn’t find it until my third attempt at the repair.So be extremely cautious about bending that board, some of those joints are almost impossible to get to for soldering.
You should now have access to the top of the capacitor.I know this sounds strange, but use pliers and pull the top of the capacitor off (the little aluminum can, it pulls off easily).There will be two, fine wires sticking straight up.
NOTE: Pay attention to the polarity of the new capacitor.Although the capacitor will probably work installed either way, the positive lead should be on the left side when looking at the board as in Photo 2.
You may try to solder the capacitor to these wires if you want.If you get a firm solder joint, great!It will work that way.As the forum posting that we read stated, you may want to secure the capacitor from vibration with a spot of hot glue.
I did not have success soldering to these wires.I had to cut the wires close to the base, remove the plastic base and carefully de-solder the leads from the board.Be certain that you remove all metal fragments that you de-soldered.DO NOT touch any other component with the iron while de-soldering and soldering on the board.When you de-solder the leads from the pads, there should be only a tiny amount of solder left on the pads.
Before trying to solder the new capacitor onto the board, bend and shape the leads so they are similar to the shape of the one in the photo.Do not attempt to solder the capacitor down and then bend it into position, the pads could pull off the board which would be tragic.
Test the spacing of the leads on the board before trying to solder.Be sure that they fit the pads closely, do not touch each other and do not cross or touch any other component or pad.When you have the leads shaped correctly, tin the leads with a minute amount of solder.Hold the capacitor in place and touch one lead with the iron.Keep the iron in contact with the lead only as long as it takes to melt the solder.When the first lead joint is solid, solder the second lead.Apply more solder if necessary, but not much.These pads are very close to non-connecting traces and a big blob of solder could risk having an electrical short.

(This photo shows the new capacitor installed)
Carefully inspect your work with a magnifying lens to insure that the joints are solid and are not overlapping other pads or traces.Also check for and remove any fragments of metal on the board.

(This closeup photo shows the capacitor leads and pads. As you can see, there is a big ball of solder on the left pad. I left it that way since it did not touch any other traces.)
Completely reassemble the electronic module.As with the first test, hold the module carefully and plug the two cables, from the dash, back into the module.Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.The panel and the HUD should light up and display a zero.If so, everything can be reassembled and you are ready for the road.Go to FINALLY.

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Datsun 240Z Body Restoration

This Datsun was imported from the US. While largely rust free it has a lot of poorly repaired accident damage possibly resulting from a roll, and a pragmatic US bodyman has cut bits out, straightened them, then welded them back on. Squint.

As received - the initial inspection

As Received - Inspection

This page includes photos from an initial inspection of the shell.
The shell is largely rust free. Only the floors and a few other localised areas show any sign of rot. But it appears to have been rolled at some point and poorly repaired.
The majority of the work you'll see on these pages is intended to properly repair that damage, and make the shell straight and safe.
It would be cheaper and quicker to repair a rusty shell, but given this shell as a starting point the finished job should be better and cheaper than buying and repairing another shell.
Building the chassis jig

Chassis Jig

A rusty but straight car can generally be repaired without the need for a jig. The car can be braced, and measurements can be taken from the other side of the car ensuring the new parts end up in the right place.
On the other hand a jig saves a whole lot of measuring, and with the shell bolted down it has less chance of going out of shape during repairs.
This shell is far from straight, so a chassis jig is needed to make sure that everything ends up in the right spot. This detail page describes the building of the chassis jig.
Front Chassis Repairs Front Chassis
After a long delay (mostly due to other projects) we're back in action.
I'm still trying to get the car to sit on the chassis jig, and I've come up with the cunning plan of making a chassis to fit on the jig and then welding the rest of the car to that.
Replacement front chassis rails are the first job.

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Chevrolet Sonic RS

Chevrolet Sonic RS previewed ahead of Detroit, 1.4L turbo

 At this year’s season opening Detroit show, Chevrolet unveiled its B-segment contender, the next gen Aveo called Sonic. The upcoming NAIAS 2012 will see the GM brand wheel out the hot version of the Sonic, tagged RS. To go on sale in late 2012, the Sonic RS will be offered exclusively in five-door hatchback form – no sedan RS.
Go faster kit includes front sport seats, a thicker steering wheel with flat bottom, a new shift knob, aluminum sport pedals, specific instrument panel graphics and RS-specific interior trim colour. Outside, the RS is set apart by a deep air dam design and vertical intakes at the edges of the fascia that house the fog lamps.

Under the hood, the RS will come with the same 1.4L Ecotec turbo that powers top spec Sonics. This 138 hp/200 Nm unit is matched with a six-speed manual or six-speed auto gearbox. Unique gear ratios for the stick shift and a different final drive ratio for the auto gives the Sonic RS a “sportier feel” than non-RS models.
The suspension combines front MacPherson struts and an axle-mount compound link-type torsion beam, with gas-charged shocks. Front and rear tracks are identical at 1,509 mm for well-planted stability and balance, Chevy says. The RS is the only Sonic variant with four-wheel disc brakes.

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